Showing posts with label Nostalgia?. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nostalgia?. Show all posts

Sunday, July 29, 2007

A short history of movie theater concession stands

Slate Magazine:By Jill Hunter Pellettieri
How exactly did we form this cultural habit? Today, concessions are the lifeblood of the theater business: According to the National Association of Theatre Owners, they account for approximately 40 percent of theaters' net revenue. But it wasn't always this way....

But theater owners had yet to realize just how lucrative concessions could be. Far from embracing food sales, many were downright hostile toward them, particularly as nickelodeons gave way to the fancier movie houses of the teens and '20s. During those two decades, in an effort to enhance the moviegoing experience, ambitious showmen constructed opulent movie palaces, like Sid Grauman's Chinese Theater in Los Angeles, which opened in 1927. These palaces, some of which cost millions to build, could rival the sophistication of European opera houses. Appointed with expensive antiques, marble columns, bejeweled chandeliers, and even perfume sprayed into common spaces, they transported moviegoers to another world. Yet it was a world without munchies.

Movie theater owners wanted their venues to remain upscale, free from the chomping of snacks you'd find at burlesque shows. They also wanted their plush theaters garbage-free. But as in the nickelodeon days, entrepreneurial vendors sold snacks outside. Popcorn kernels and candy wrappers ended up littering theaters despite owners' best efforts to keep food out.

Then came the Great Depression. Squeezed like everyone else, palace owners sought new sources of revenue. Some deigned to install candy dispensers, and others leased lobby space to popcorn vendors....it wasn't long before theater owners recognized popcorn's lucrative promise and began selling it in-house. Early popcorn popping machines had created disagreeable, burning odors, but by the 1930s, the technology had improved. And because popcorn was so cheap—theaters could sell it for 10 cents a bag and still turn a nice profit—it was a treat that even cash-strapped Americans could manage to splurge on.

Eager to avoid the mistakes of their predecessors, theater builders of the 1930s constructed more humble neighborhood houses, and with concessions becoming a bigger part of the business, the candy counter became an architectural consideration. Theaters still hoping to appeal to highbrow customers offered homemade bonbons, chocolates, and candy apples, but as mass production grew more prevalent, an abundance of newer candies—Jujubes and Jujyfruits, Baby Ruths, Raisinets, Milk Duds, and others—emerged on the scene.

Candy suffered a setback during World War II, however, when sugar was rationed. Popcorn production, on the other hand, was given the go-ahead by the War Production Board because of its health benefits and popularity. Popcorn flourished, solidifying its hold over the concession stand.

After the war, in the mid- to late-1940s, theater owners grappled with another threat—television—that made it more important than ever to capitalize on snack sales. ... From 1948 to 1956, despite a 50 percent decrease in theater attendance, concession sales increased fortyfold. The end of the war meant a return to sugar...

[T]he old standbys are the real moneymakers. We may sigh when the kid behind the counter solicits that $9 for a small Coke and a medium popcorn, but traditional concessions are by now inextricably linked to the moviegoing experience. Not only is there the kid-in-a-candy-store excitement—here's one place where it's still safe to gorge on junk food—but the smell of popcorn that pervades every movie theater can bubble up nostalgia in even the most curmudgeonly customer. A trip to the concession stand might elicit memories of a first date—holding her hand, greasy with popcorn, in the dark theater, or the tug of your teeth on the licorice sticks you ordered as a kid, or the Good & Plenty your grandmother used to buy you on your Saturday trips to the movies. What's $9 for that?

Madison's new Sundance 608 theater complex has raised the local culinary stakes, although recent medical research suggests you won't want to make friends with anyone with greasy palms, or palm oil.

Thursday, July 5, 2007

A Sour Chaser to my Nathan's coverage

The Great Lower East Side Pickle War - New York Times Blog: By Sewell Chan


Even as the beloved, traditional Jewish food establishments of the Lower East Side seem to be locked into an irrecoverable downward spiral — the death of Gertel’s bakery being the most recent example — a war has been raging over who is the legitimate heir to the Guss’s pickle empire that once ruled over Essex Street. ...

Ms. Fairhurst and the Leibowitz family got along at first; she used the Guss name and bought the family’s pickles. That suddenly changed, according to the Leibowitzes, in 2006, when Ms. Fairhurst decided to buy her pickles from another supplier. The Leibowitzes asserted that she would have to stop using the Guss name. They set up a Guss’s Pickles Web site that asserts that theirs are the only true Guss’s Pickles.

Ms. Fairhurst retaliated by filing a federal lawsuit [pdf] in which she denied she was infringing on any trademark. She accused the Leibowitzes of unfair competition and “tortious interference.” The Leibowitz family, in answering the lawsuit [pdf], denied the accusations. The Leibowitzes also filed a counterclaim [pdf] asserting that they have the exclusive right to the Guss’s Pickles trademark....

Meanwhile — as if this could possibly get more complicated — a third pickle business, The Pickle Guys, was started in 2003 by Alan Kaufman and other former employees of Guss’s Pickles. They were dismayed that the original business had left Essex Street, its home for so many years. Mr. Kaufman’s Web site boasts, “Today we are the only pickle store that exists on Essex Street.”


Follow the links for all the juicy details. Guss' was featured in the nostalgic "Crossing Delancy" film of some years back. There is a lively (and punny) commentary on the NYT blog site; so far, sentiment is running in favor of the Pickle Guys for taste, if not legal hegemony.

This will require a field trip for further "law in action" research.

Can I win a matzo-ball-eating contest?

Slate Magazine: By Emily Yoffe
I picked up the first matzo ball. A thin, moist crust quickly gave way to a pastelike mantle, followed by a sawdust core. I got the whole thing stuffed in my cheeks, where it defied my attempts to swallow. I finally choked it down and reached for the next one. The centers were killing me: No grandmother of mine would ever have served such dusty balls....

As the last minute was announced I started shoving... In the end I ate six. I felt both surprisingly good and proud of myself, until I discovered Badlands Booker had set a new world record with 30. Though I came in last, Crazy Legs told me I tied the previous female matzo-ball record. IFOCE official George Shea confirmed this but pointed out that this was a pathetic attempt on my part to set an affirmative-action standard for eating. In competitive eating, he said cruelly, "there is no Title IX."...

I talked to the third-place finisher (24 balls), Tim "Eater X" Janus, whose sole experience with matzo balls is in competition. "I still don't understand why they continue to exist," he said. But I do. After I returned home I attended two consecutive Seders. At each I was given my usual single-ball serving. The balls were fluffy and moist. Both nights I went back for seconds.


I think this will probably complete The Wise Bard's intensive coverage of the competitive eating circuit for this season.

Thanks to Louise and Bruce for a wonderful, if non-competitive, July 4 BBQ.

Monday, July 2, 2007

Once Upon a Radical Time on the Lower East Side

New York Times Blog: By Sewell Chan


Clayton Patterson — ex-teacher, artist, photojournalist, documentarian, as he describes himself — is a man obsessed. His first anthology, “Captured: A Lower East Side Film/Video History,” published in 2005, took up 586 pages. His latest anthology, “Resistance: A Radical Social and Political History of the Lower East Side,” weighs in at 624 pages. ...

Radicalism on the Lower East Side has a long history — settlement house reformers, garment worker organizers, Italian socialists, native-born Trotskyites and Yiddish-speaking intellectuals among others — but the radicalism that Mr. Patterson focuses on is more recent: the tenant, artistic, leftist, antiwar, civil-rights, gay-rights activism that dominated the area’s politics in the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s. ...

The Lower East Side’s reputation as a refuge for struggling newcomers, down-and-out artists and nonconformist agitators appears to be fading, perhaps for good. “What we knew here before will never be here again,” Mr. Patterson said wistfully. Others were not so pessimistic. Mr. Rosen described local efforts to promote zoning restrictions that would prevent high-rise development in the area.

“Changing the zoning is not just a matter of how high a building goes, but it’s also a matter of remembering our history, being able to see our history, and beyond that, being able to protect our communities,” he said.

No More Babka? There Goes the Neighborhood

New York Times Blog: By Joseph Berger
Gertel’s, the legendary bakery on Hester Street on the Lower East Side known for its Jewish treats like rugelach, babka and marble cake, has closed its doors.

The closing is one more change in a string of changes on the historic Lower East Side, where hundreds of thousands of immigrants from Russia, Poland, Romania and Italy established their foothold in America and set up hundreds of dry goods and food shops that until recent years gave the area a characteristic pungency. But those shops are being replaced by hip boutiques and voguish restaurants, and only a few survivors, like the Russ & Daughters appetizing store and Katz’s Delicatessen, are left. ...

Reports on various Web sites say that Gertel’s is being replaced by a condo building and that a wholesale operation may continue. Gertel’s last babka was sold to a congregant at a Westchester synagogue, who gave the cake to her rabbi, Lester Bronstein.

Where Were You During the Summer of Love?

The Chronicle:

We asked college faculty members and administrators to share their memories and reflections about where they were 40 years ago during the Summer of Love, 1967. Some were flying their freak flags; others were flying missions over Vietnam. Some said they felt part of a pivotal historical moment; others were just trying to survive lousy summer jobs. Deeply felt politics mingled with casually observed spectacle. It was light-years ago. And it was just yesterday. ...

Theodore Roszak, emeritus professor of history, California State University-East Bay: Maybe it was an advantage that I was 5,000 miles away when the Summer of Love happened. I had taken a leave from my teaching job and was living in London, editing a small pacifist journal and working on a series of articles for The Nation dealing with campus protest. The articles would eventually become a book titled The Making of a Counter Culture. That title emerged in large measure from the reports that were arriving in England from the streets of San Francisco, a bemused journalistic chronicle of young Americans experimenting with a zany lifestyle that might not outlast the summer, but which certainly made a blazing statement of dissent. From that distance, I had little to work from except sardonic commentary in the British press and sensational images of blissed-out youth cavorting in Golden Gate Park.

The coverage that came my way typified the European fascination with wild and wacky California. But by then I was convinced there was more to these matters than sex, drugs, and rock 'n' roll. Not that sex, drugs, and rock 'n' roll didn't matter. They were the most forceful expression of the statement. But could that statement be given a more accessible philosophical translation? That was the task I set myself, giving my attention mainly to a group of influential thinkers (among them Herbert Marcuse, C. Wright Mills, Norman Brown, Paul Goodman, and Alan Watts) who were raising significant questions about the dominant reality principle of the modern world.

Remember, this was the era when, on both sides of the cold war, science and technology had signed on with the military-industrial complex, leaving the world to wonder how soon the missiles would fly and the sky catch fire; "mad rationality," as Lewis Mumford so aptly put it.

What I sensed beneath the surface of youthful dissent was the spontaneous emergence of a subterranean tradition that reached back to the early days of industrial revolution, a "cry of the heart" first voiced by romantic poets and artists against the "dark, Satanic mills" that were desiccating the human spirit and the natural world. A counter culture. That's what I saw in the ebullience of Haight-Ashbury for that one brief interval in 1967. It didn't last long, but it didn't have to. The lines had been drawn and the issue joined. ...

Michael Kazin, professor of history, Georgetown University: Having completed my first year in college, I imagined I was living in the springtime of the revolution. So naturally I spent the summer of 67 trying to nurture its buds. I attended my first convention of Students for a Democratic Society, in Ann Arbor, where network TV filmed our debates about how to stop the draft — and the national leaders all dropped LSD. Then I took a job in the SDS regional office in New York City, soaking up what passed for wisdom from people like Mark Rudd and Dave Gilbert, who, two years later, would be founders of Weatherman. We sponsored a talk by the SNCC firebrand H. Rap Brown and a conference of student radicals from Europe. Everyone I knew seemed to be reading Regis Debray's Revolution in the Revolution?, which proclaimed guerilla war as the salvation of the third world.

But politics didn't take up all that many evenings. I went to smoke-ins in Tompkins Square Park, heard the Fugs play at a tiny theater nearby where my girlfriend sold tickets. Sometime in August, she and I spent a long, tense day at Jones Beach, quarreled that evening, and broke up the next morning. But I was just 19, healthy, and headed back to Harvard. Everything mattered, which was fine by me....

David Horowitz, writer and conservative activist: I missed the Summer of Love. I was living in a two-room basement flat near Hampstead Heath in normally dank and dreary London. I don't remember anyone holding a Summer of Love in London — it was probably too cold. I probably wouldn't have participated if they did. I had three kids in a nuclear family and had never been high. I was a fairly humorless Marxist and would not hear a live electric guitar until the following year, when I moved back to Berkeley (I still remember the band's name, Purple Earthquake — I loved it). I worked for the Bertrand Russell Peace Foundation and facilitated a meeting between Lord Russell and Joan Baez, which was somewhat problematic since neither of them had the foggiest idea who the other was. I organized and wrote manifestos for the Vietnam Solidarity Campaign, a little "vanguard" opposing the Vietnam War. Of course, as with every other leftist antiwar vanguard, our "solidarity" was with the Communists, not the Vietnamese, and we were not against war, just America's wars. When I wasn't plotting revolution, I was finishing a book called Empire and Revolution (seriously) and trying to figure out how I was going to get back home.

James Wright, president, Dartmouth College: It is hard to remember 1967 as the "Summer of Love." Although a student, I was a long way from San Francisco or Monterey. Married with three children, the youngest of whom was three years old, I was pursuing my doctorate in American history from the University of Wisconsin, working with the great Western historian Allan Bogue. I was just beginning my dissertation research on populism, and that summer, I piled the whole family into our old Chevy station wagon — which was not air-conditioned, of course — and drove from Madison to Boulder, taking the slow route through the Dakotas. The AM car radio played Otis Redding, the Beatles, Aretha Franklin, the Temptations, as well as, given where we were, Johnny Cash and Patsy Cline. And we followed updates on the Six Day War.

In Boulder we spent the summer in a house on 13th Street across from Beach Park, a gathering place for University of Colorado students and the counterculture. We could catch the whiff of marijuana and listen to the music. I read Truman Capote's In Cold Blood and William Styron's The Confessions of Nat Turner. I worked in the libraries all day, but in the evenings we watched on television with horror the race riots in Detroit, Newark, Washington, and elsewhere. Public opinion on the Vietnam War had begun to turn extremely negative, and I joined in that opposition. Just a few years earlier I had served in the Marines myself, and so I sympathized with the young troops in Vietnam who had been given an impossible assignment. It was not really a summer of love....

Leon Botstein, president, Bard College: The Summer of Love passed me by. Having been a premature adult, I was not a candidate to be a hippie. As an immigrant, I was not inclined to drop out. With an internship as an urban fellow in New York City Mayor John Lindsay's administration, I thought I could substitute a contribution to resolving the urban crisis for involvement in Vietnam, a war I, like so many others, opposed. What those turbulent years did is to lead me first into public service before I embarked on my career in music.

The Summer of Love was a turning point away from politics toward a mysticism, drug culture, and anti-intellectualism that ultimately made a mockery of disciplined thought and discouraged the appreciation of and engagement with science. After 1970, when I became president of Franconia College, at the age of 23, a spirit of wild-eyed utopianism flourished in the context of a rage among young people toward the war, inequality, and injustice that increasingly was turned outward at older adults and inward with more than an edge of personal pain.

One ought to remember that era without nostalgia and with the recollection that as the energy and organization of the 60s descended into violence and escapism, a reaction was brewing that turned the anti-intellectualism of the left into the equally anti-intellectual moral absolutism of today's neoconservatism. Radical as that era seems in retrospect, it has been more than matched by the disasters wreaked by the extreme right.

If the revival of religion in public life and the intolerance of reasoned critical debate are legacies of reactionary conservatism, then the fundamental reshaping of the role of women in politics and the workplace and the slow but marked improvements in majority attitudes toward minorities are the positive residues of the 60s. The hammer blow of reaction against the perception of moral collapse, however, has done more damage than the late 60s and early 70s ever did. No matter one's political beliefs, one familiar quip from from that time is worth remembering. If one were forced to choose between simplistic extremes, I'd rather live with fellow citizens who, in a free society, would choose love over war.